Painting Crane Miniatures - by Nadin Brzezinzki   The miniatures for this game can seem overwhelming even to experienced painters. The level of detail in each model is very good, hence making justice to the models can be a problem. This is a short clinic on how to do models per clan. The first Clan to be visited is Crane. There are two reasons for that. This is the Clan I am currently painting, and I like the color scheme. So what will you need before you begin? Apart of the models and patience that is. (Click to enlarge.) What you see here are the tools needed to clean up your model. The snips are very good for cutting off large areas of flash. The files, will be used to clean up the model. Pictured are the Armory files as well as some Ral Partha spray primer, white, some cyano acrilic glue and sometimes needed zip kicker. A pin vise is absent since the models, unless you are doing a large one, do not require it. (Click to enlarge.) As to the blister chosen. I chose to work on some Kakita infantry. The models have flash and need some serious cleaning. But that shouldn’t take you too long to do. Bellow you can see the models before they were even prepared. As you can see the figures are bare metal. Flash can be seen if you look for it. The figures in this blister were moderately flashy, and required some work. It took about half an hour to clean the models up. Once that was done they were ready to be based and spray primered with white primer. (Click to enlarge.) Two words about primer. White primer is used generally when you want the full richness of the color used to come out. Black primer is very good when you are just learning to paint, or you want a dark and moody figure. If these were Shadowlands models I would consider using Black primer. Second point about primer, if you don’t use it, your models will peel. Primer is specially formulated paint that gives your paint a surface to stick to. It is needed and you should use it. They come in two forms, spray primer and brush on primer. As to brands, I like Ral Partha, but it is a matter of preference. Moreover, you can also use Gray Primer which is a good compromise between white and black. Once you primer your model you will quickly notice that the model comes alive with detail. That is your first real hint as to the amount of detail that you will have to work with. Okay now that the figures are ready for painting, we can start. There are two caveats I would like to emphasize though. When you finish the model if you are happy with the model, you did a great job. It really does not matter what others say about your model. Second, what I am going to explain here step by step are my own individual techniques. There are other techniques and they are just as valid. Hence look for your own style. This is meant to be a guide not a bible. (Click to enlarge.) First off, I do start by painting from the “inside” of the model out. And do work on individual areas at a time. Yes it is more time consuming but let the results speak for themselves. So with no further adieu what colors did I use? Well, first off paint hands, arms and face with Asian, Ral Partha paint. The color is rather rich and warm. And this is definitely an effect you do want in your figures unless they are undead as in Shadowlands.   (Click to enlarge.) Now the next few steps involve repeated black and brown washes. What are washes? They are watered down paint, usually five parts of water and one part paint. I tend to use washes that are a tad thicker, but you run the risk of over doing it that way. I also painted the shirt and pantaloons in frost giant white and washed them with a combination of blood red and brown. The theory behind washes is that the diluted paint will get into crevices that have been sculpted into the model. That way they can give color to those areas that you could not reach, darkening them. The theory behind it is as follows. Use an intermediate tone. Wash with a darker tone, the back up is black. Finally dry brush, don’t worry we will get there, with a lighter tone.  Here is the figure after the washes on the face, and on the pantaloons and blouse. As you can see some more details have “appeared” on both the flesh painted areas and on the pants. (Click to enlarge.) The figure is now ready for the base coat of blue.  The paint used for the armor is Dragon Scale Blue.  The name has changed in the recent past but your local store should know which tone replaced it. Paint carefully on the boots, the shin protectors, without painting over the cords tying them in place, and over the plate armor. Do not paint the lower area, since that is going to be white with some red detailing the mesh.  Once you have applied the basic colors the figure will look as follows: (left) (Click to enlarge.) As you can see the base colors with some washes have been done. The boots, which will be done in dunkel brown, as well as the straps have not been painted on because the model now will undergo repeated washes with dark blue. Hence, at the risk of shading some parts of the model with the “wrong” wash, they have been left alone. Details are being left also for the end. Note that the belt and the pommel of the sword will be painted white. That way, during the wash, the grooves will take on the Crane blue color. (Click to enlarge.) After this we are ready to do several things. First off, paint the boots and other strapping in dunkel brown, then wash them with black and after that you are ready to do the dry brushing that will bring the armor to full life, and add the final details that will complete the model. What is dry brushing? Dry brushing is a technique used to bring out details in the etching. What you do is take a lighter tone from the base tone. Put some paint in the brush and then “paint” on a piece of clean paper until you see no more paint on it. Then proceed to “paint” over the surface of the model. You will see paint highlight areas that are raised and the result is rather impressive. Two caveats: The model must be dry, and you can use too much paint. It takes practice, but as you can see bellow the armor on the model has come out quite well, as well as the raised areas of the face and hands. I also tend to use repeated dry brushing in decreasing tones. In this case, started with blue, went to light blue and finished with white. In the end the model took on a seriously detailed look. That you may appreciate to the left. After doing this you are ready to start working on the details, and yes, you are close to finishing the model. Details that you need to work on, the webbing on the feet, use bone white for that, nice contrast to the dunkel brown, the pommel of the sword, the end of the sword, the hair and the cross stitching at the end bottom of the armor. And of course the eyes, and the moustache as well as the eye lashes. Another advantage of dry brushing is that it can bring up detail that you did not think was there. After that, the base will need some work but the model will be ready to take on the field. (Click to enlarge.) To the left and below you will find both the figure after details were added, as well as the finished figure with the work on the base. After you are done do not forget to seal it. Here again we get into the old argument, shiny or matte sealer? I like matte personally, but if your models are going to be taking on a beating, use shiny, it protects them. The best thing to do is to use shiny and then do a coat of matte to take that shiny look away from the model. (Click to enlarge.) Now that you are done with that model there is one final step, SEAL IT!  With the proper color schemes and time you can do this for any Clan War army. This will lead to results that will amaze you, and in time you will be able to develop your own style. Most important of all, if you like the results you did a wonderful job. -Nadin Brzezinzki